Learning how to change a tap washer takes about half an hour: turn off the water, unscrew the headgear, swap the worn jumper valve and washer, then reassemble. If the tap still drips with a new washer, leaks from the wall or won’t shut off, the fault is deeper and needs a licensed plumber.
This guide shows how to change a tap washer step by step: the parts inside a tap, the tools you need, a staged walkthrough for basin, kitchen and shower taps, and what a Sydney plumber charges when DIY isn’t enough.
Key points
- A dripping spout on an older two-handle tap is almost always a worn washer, and Sydney Water lists changing it as homeowner work.
- Replace the whole jumper valve with the washer, because a new washer on a worn jumper rarely seals for long.
- Never force a seized headgear or overtighten the handle; both can crack the tap body or twist the pipe behind it.
- Call a licensed plumber when the drip returns quickly, the tap is a ceramic mixer, or water appears around the wall or cabinet.
Tap washer parts explained
| Term | What it means | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Tap washer | A small rubber or fibre disc that presses onto the tap seat to stop the flow | It wears with every turn, and a worn washer is the classic cause of a dripping spout |
| Jumper valve | The small stem that carries the washer and sits between the spindle and the seat | Most people replacing a washer in a tap swap the jumper too, since washers are often pressed on |
| Headgear | The brass body holding the spindle, screwed into the tap body with a hex nut | You unscrew the headgear to reach the washer; seized headgear is a common stopping point |
| Spindle and O-ring | The shaft the handle turns, sealed by a rubber ring around it | A failed O-ring leaks around the handle while the tap runs, not from the spout |
| Tap seat | The machined brass ring inside the tap body that the washer closes against | If the seat is pitted, even a new washer won’t seal and a plumber needs to reseat it |
| Ceramic disc cartridge | A sealed valve used in mixers and quarter-turn taps instead of a washer | These have no washer to change, so a drip means a new cartridge, fitted by a plumber |
What you need to change a tap washer
| Item | What it’s for | Price band (indicative) |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement jumper valve and washer kit | Matches your old parts; take the worn jumper to the shop to compare | $ |
| Adjustable spanner or shifter | Undoes the headgear hex nut on basin and kitchen taps | $–$$ |
| Shower or bath tap box spanner | Reaches headgear recessed inside a wall without chewing the nut | $–$$ |
| Flat and Phillips screwdrivers | Remove indicator caps and the handle screw | $ |
| Needle-nose pliers | Lift a stuck jumper valve out of the tap body | $ |
| Tap grease and a soft cloth | Lubricates threads and O-rings; the cloth protects chrome from spanner marks | $ |
Compression tap or ceramic disc tap: which do you have?
| Check | Compression (washer) tap | Ceramic disc tap |
|---|---|---|
| How the handle turns | Several full turns from off to full flow | A quarter or half turn, or a single lever |
| How it shuts off | Gets firmer as you close it, and you can overtighten it | Stops dead at a fixed point |
| Typical age in Sydney homes | Common in older bathrooms, laundries and garden taps | Common in newer mixers from brands like Methven, Caroma and Phoenix |
| What fixes a drip | A new washer and jumper valve | A new cartridge matched to the tap model |
| DIY or plumber | DIY, per Sydney Water’s homeowner guidance | Licensed plumber recommended |
Check your tap type before you look up how to change a tap washer, because it saves a wasted trip to the hardware store.
How to change a tap washer in 4 stages
1. Turn off the water and drain the tap
- Close the isolation valve under the basin or sink with a screwdriver or by hand, so only that tap loses water.
- Turn off the main if there’s no isolation valve; our guide to turning off your water main shows where the meter usually sits.
- Open the tap fully until it stops running, which drains the line and confirms the supply really is off.
- Put the plug in and lay a cloth in the basin so a screw or jumper valve can’t drop down the waste.
- Photograph the tap before you start, so you can reassemble the cap, handle and shroud in the right order.
2. Remove the handle and headgear
- Prise off the hot or cold indicator cap with a thin flat screwdriver, working gently so you don’t scratch the chrome.
- Undo the screw under the cap and pull the handle off; a handle stuck by scale usually frees with gentle rocking.
- Unscrew the chrome shroud or cover by hand or with a cloth-wrapped shifter to expose the hex nut on the headgear.
- Hold the spout firmly while you turn the headgear anticlockwise, so the force goes into the nut, not the pipe behind the tap.
- Lift the headgear straight out and check whether the jumper valve came with it or stayed inside the tap body.
3. Replace the washer and jumper valve
- Remove the old jumper valve with needle-nose pliers if it’s stuck in the body, taking care not to scratch the seat.
- Match the replacement to the old part at the hardware store or a plumbing supplier such as Reece, as stem lengths vary.
- Fit a complete new jumper valve with washer rather than prising a washer onto the old jumper, which rarely holds.
- Shine a torch onto the tap seat and feel it; pitting or a groove means a new washer won’t seal and you need a plumber.
- Wipe a thin film of tap grease on the headgear threads so the tap turns smoothly and comes apart easily next time.
4. Reassemble and test the tap
- Drop the new jumper valve into the tap body with the washer facing down onto the seat.
- Screw the headgear in by hand first, then snug it with the spanner; overtightening can strip brass threads or crack the body.
- Refit the shroud, handle, screw and indicator cap, following your photo so everything sits flush.
- Close the tap and restore the water slowly at the isolation valve or main to avoid a pressure surge.
- Run the tap to clear air, then close it gently and watch the spout and handle for drips over the next hour.
Other washer replacement jobs around the tap
Change the washer on a shower or bath tap
- Turn off the water main, because wall-mounted shower and bath taps rarely have their own isolation valve.
- Remove the handle and the cover plate so you can see the headgear recessed inside the wall.
- Use a box spanner sized to the hex; a shifter slips in the recess and rounds the nut off.
- Swap the jumper valve and washer exactly as for a basin tap, checking the seat as you go.
- Stop and call a plumber if the headgear won’t turn or water appears behind the plate, as that means a leak inside the wall.
Replace the spindle O-ring
- Confirm the symptom first: water around the handle while the tap runs points to the O-ring, not the washer.
- Turn off the water and remove the headgear using the steps above, then lay it on a clean cloth.
- Roll the old O-ring off with a plastic pick, avoiding metal tools that can score the groove.
- Fit a matching O-ring coated in tap grease, making sure it sits evenly with no twists.
- Reassemble and run the tap for a few minutes, checking the handle area stays dry.
How to replace a tap valve: jumper valve or cartridge
- In a compression tap, the “tap valve” is usually the jumper valve, and you replace it with the washer in stage 3 above.
- In a mixer or quarter-turn tap, the valve is a ceramic cartridge that must match the brand and model exactly.
- Sydney Water’s homeowner guidance names changing a tap washer, not cartridges or tap bodies, so have a licensed plumber handle those.
- A plumber can source the correct cartridge from the manufacturer or Reece and check the tap body while it’s open.
- If the tap is old or parts are unavailable, replacing the whole tap is often cheaper than chasing a discontinued cartridge.
- Read our kitchen mixer taps guide if you’re weighing up a replacement tap instead of a repair.
Washer types: which one is a tap washer?
| Washer | Where it’s used | Part of a tap washer job? |
|---|---|---|
| Tap washer on a jumper valve | Inside compression taps on basins, sinks, laundries and showers | Yes, the main part you change |
| Spindle O-ring | Around the spindle under the handle | Yes, often changed at the same time |
| Garden tap hose washer | Inside the hose connector on an outdoor tap | Yes, a simple push-in swap |
| Flexible hose connector washer | Where braided flexi hoses meet the tap or isolation valve | No; a leaking flexi hose should be replaced by a plumber |
| 40mm washer | Slip-joint seals on 40mm waste and trap fittings under sinks and basins | No; it’s a waste fitting, and leaks there need a plumber |
| Sump plug crush washer | A car engine’s oil drain plug | No; it’s an automotive part, not a plumbing one |
Why taps keep dripping after a washer change
| Cause | Sign you’ll notice | Fix | DIY or plumber |
|---|---|---|---|
| Worn tap washer | Steady drip from the spout when the tap is off | New washer and jumper valve | DIY |
| Pitted or worn tap seat | Drip returns within weeks of a new washer | Reseat the tap or replace it | Plumber |
| Failed spindle O-ring | Water around the handle while the tap runs | New O-ring | DIY |
| Worn ceramic cartridge | Drip from a mixer or quarter-turn tap | Matching cartridge | Plumber |
| Stripped spindle or headgear threads | Handle spins without shutting the water off | New headgear or tap | Plumber |
| High mains pressure or water hammer | Washers wear fast and pipes bang when taps close | Pressure check and a pressure reducing valve | Plumber |
What not to do when changing washers in taps
- Don’t crank the handle harder to stop a drip; it crushes the washer and grinds the seat, turning a cheap fix into a reseat.
- Don’t start with the water still on, because the headgear can blow out under mains pressure and flood the room.
- Don’t grip chrome with bare pliers; wrap the jaws in a cloth so you don’t leave marks that can’t be polished out.
- Don’t force a seized headgear; twisting the tap body can crack the joint to the pipe inside the wall or cabinet.
- Don’t guess the jumper size; a jumper that’s too short won’t close the tap fully, and one too long stops it opening.
- Don’t open a wall or replace the tap body yourself; Sydney Water treats repairs to private water pipes as licensed work.
When to call a plumber instead of changing the washer
- The drip comes back within weeks, which usually means a worn seat that needs reseating or a new tap.
- The tap is a mixer or quarter-turn model with a ceramic cartridge rather than a washer.
- The headgear is seized or the hex is rounded, and more force risks cracking the tap body.
- Water stains, swelling or mould appear on the wall, vanity base or ceiling below, which suggests a hidden pipe leak.
- Taps bang, shudder or wear out washers quickly, a sign of high pressure; see our water hammer guide.
- Every tap in the house runs weakly after the repair, which our low water pressure guide helps you trace.
Sydney Water says homeowners confident with minor work like changing a tap washer can do it themselves. Repairing leaks in private water pipes, renovations and replacing showers need a licensed plumber.
What a plumber charges to change a tap washer in Sydney
| Service (Sydney, Oct 2026, incl. GST) | Price range | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Call-out fee | $69–$170 | $140 |
| Hourly rate | $92–$230 | $140 |
| Leaking tap repair | $80–$260 | $170 |
| Tap replacement | $150–$500 | $330 |
| After-hours hourly rate | $170–$345 | $255 |
| After-hours or emergency visit | $290–$805 | $520 |
- Ask for a fixed price per tap, and have the plumber service every dripping tap in one visit to spread the call-out fee.
- Ask whether reseating is included, since a worn seat is the usual reason a new washer fails quickly.
- Request a Certificate of Compliance for any pipe work; it confirms the job meets the Plumbing Code of Australia.
- Compare full rates in our Sydney plumber cost guide before you book.
- Check the plumber’s licence online using our NSW licence check guide.
How to stop taps dripping again
- Close taps gently until the flow stops, because extra force flattens the washer and wears the seat faster.
- Change hot and cold washers together on the same tap set, since they usually wear at a similar rate.
- Keep a spare jumper valve and O-ring kit in the laundry so a drip gets fixed the day it starts.
- Grease the headgear threads at every service so the tap comes apart easily years from now.
- Get mains pressure checked if washers wear quickly; a pressure reducing valve protects every tap and fitting.
- Consider ceramic disc taps when you renovate, since they have no washer to wear and close with a light touch.
How to change a tap washer: FAQs
How do you change a washer in a tap?
Turn off the isolation valve or main, open the tap to drain it, then remove the cap, handle and shroud. Unscrew the headgear anticlockwise, lift out the old jumper valve, fit a matching new jumper and washer, and reassemble. Turn the water back on slowly and check for drips.
Can I change the washer on a tap without turning off the main?
Yes, if the basin or sink has an isolation valve underneath. Closing it cuts water to that tap only, so the rest of the house keeps running. Wall-mounted shower and bath taps rarely have one, so you’ll usually need to turn off the main before you start.
How do I replace a tap washer if the headgear won’t move?
Make sure the water is off and the tap is open, then use a correctly sized spanner while holding the spout steady. If it still won’t turn, stop. Extra force can crack the tap body or the pipe joint behind it, and a plumber has tools to free it safely.
Why does my tap still drip after I replaced the washer?
The most likely cause is a pitted or worn tap seat, so the new washer can’t close against a smooth surface. A wrong-sized jumper valve or a ceramic cartridge tap can also be the reason. A plumber can reseat the tap or advise whether replacing it makes more sense.
Can I replace a tap valve myself?
If “tap valve” means the jumper valve in a compression tap, yes, you replace it with the washer. A ceramic disc cartridge in a mixer is different. Sydney Water’s homeowner guidance covers tap washers, so have a licensed plumber fit cartridges and anything beyond the washer.
How much does a plumber charge to fix a leaking tap in Sydney?
A leaking tap repair in Sydney costs about $80–$260, typically around $170, while a full tap replacement typically costs around $330 (October 2026, incl. GST). Expect a call-out fee as well, and higher rates for after-hours work, so ask for a fixed price before work starts.
Getting a dripping tap fixed in Sydney
If a new washer hasn’t stopped the drip, or the tap is a mixer, the fix sits beyond the washer. TQN Plumber’s licensed Sydney plumbers reseat and replace taps, fit cartridges and trace hidden leaks behind walls and vanities. Start with our leaking tap repair guide, or book a licensed plumber and we’ll quote before any work begins.
